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Krakow remains a medieval marvel
''What's that?'' I asked, looking with horror at the revolting-looking mug of liquid we'd been served in the ''medieval experience'' restaurant Chlopskie Jadlo.
''Polish fat,'' replied the waiter, confirming that we can all be happy we don't have to eat medieval style every day.
Fortunately, Krakow's other medieval experiences don't have to be consumed. Rynek Glowny, the town's Main Market Square, is Poland's (and probably all of Europe's) largest medieval town square with a layout essentially unchanged since 1257. The huge Cloth Hall, running down the center of the square, was originally erected in the 14th century, while St. Mary's Church, with its curiously unmatched towers, dominates the eastern side of the square.
The entire periphery of the magnificent square is lined with bars and cafes; even St. Mark's Square in Venice would have trouble putting out this many tables and chairs. It's said that Krakow's square also rivals St. Mark's for its pigeon population, and strolling around the square on a hot summer day, you could easily conclude the Poles like ice cream just as much as the Italians.
Krakow is a fine city for walking, especially around the medieval center, which is dotted with churches, museums and galleries and ringed by parkland and stretches of the old city walls. Pause at Florian Gate to enjoy the outdoor art show. Wawel Castle and Cathedral, Poland's most important (and most visited) historic site, stands on the banks of the Vistula River at the southern corner of the old city.
Unlike so much of Poland, Krakow miraculously escaped destruction in World War II, yet all its medieval charm is balanced by the Nazi era's darkest horrors: the Plaszow Concentration Camp, principal site for the events of Schindler's List, is in Krakow, while the larger death camps of Auschwitz and Birkenau are less than 40 miles away. The city's two best known modern citizens are also polar opposites: this is the hometown of both Roman Polanski and Pope John Paul II. (Source: http://www.miami.com/mld/miamiherald/living/travel/9379032.htm?1c) |
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